The Royal Abbey

Cong Abbey is called a Royal Abbey because it was founded by a High King and endowed by kings of Ireland. The Abbots who ruled it were the close friends and relations of kings. The kings of Connacht and their families looked on Cong Abbey as their own.

They loved to visit it and to live in it and when old age or political stress forced them from active life, it was to Cong the kings repaired to live out the last years of their lives.

The Abbey was built for the Canons Regular of the Order of St. Augustine in 1120 by Turlach Mór O’Connor, King of Connacht and High King of Ireland. The site chosen was the one on which St. Féchín had built his monastery in the 7th Century.

Constructed on a magnificent scale, Cong Abbey was the pride of the Kings of Connacht and is now considered one of the finest examples of early architecture in Ireland.

Beginning at the North Doorway of the Abbey opposite the tourist office. The upper part of the north doorway is representative of late Irish Romanesque architecture and dates from around 1220.

The decoration of the capitals is very complex – waterleaf capitals and vine-scrolls. The acanthus leaves form the bulk of the foliate decoration. Originating in Greek and Roman architecture, they became a classic feature of the Romanesque.

The plain jambs of the North Doorway are probably 15th century and may be unfinished. The lower sections are modern. The shafts lack bases which may account for the misalignment of the doorway.

The doorway was relocated to its present position during the 19th century restoration work. Sketches from the 1830’s show a pile of rubble where the doorway is now located. Originally, it was probably a processional doorway opening from the cloisters into the nave of the Abbey church.

Medieval church builders did not often include north doorways but when they did they were referred to as the Devil’s Door and served no functional purpose.

Entering the Abbey Church, to your left is the Chancel and to your right is the Nave. The entire north wall of the Nave is missing.

The Chancel contains many of the original 13th century feature. The Chancel windows on the east gable and the individual Chancel windows on the north and the south walls of the chancel date from this period.

Below the Chancel window on the south wall is the aumbry – a recess for sacred vessels during mass. Next to the aumbry is the sedilia – the seat used by the concelebrants during mass.

To the left of the doorway leading to the Sacristy there is a stone nob protruding from the wall. According to local folklore, rubbing the stone will cure chest ailments.

There are a number of important graves in the Chancel:
At the centre is a grave that shows an arm holding a cross. This is the grave of the McDonnells of Aghalard Castle. Aenes McDonnell was the last Abbot of Cong Abbey. He died in 1580 and was interred at the Abbey.

Close to this is the grave of James Lynch, an Abbot of Cong who died in 1703. Beneath the Chancel window is the grave of George McNamara.

The Chancel and Nave extend for around 120ft in length and are 25ft wide. The enclosing wall to the south of the Nave is 19th century. To the right of the doorway to the Sacristy is a small annexe which contains the grave of Thomas Bermingham of Rosshill House who died at the beginning of the 18th century.

His maternal grandfather was John Browne, the founder of the present day town of Westport. His father was related to the de Berminghams of Athenry. Walking through the doorway into the Sacristy, we see where the priest prepares for Mass.

Most of the Sacristy is 13th Century. The stairs leading to the Dorta or Dormitory are 19th Century. Originally, the night stairs would lead from the Dorta directly into the Nave of the church. They provided easy access for early morning services. The round headed windows which light the Sacristy are from the period of restoration in the 19th Century.

The purpose of the barrel-vaulted ante room is unclear. It may at one time have linked up with the armorium which opens up onto the cloisters. The Chapter House is where the community would meet to “hold chapter”.

This would involve the reading of the Martyrology – the details of Saints whose days would be celebrated on the following day. After this, all but the Canons would leave the Chapter House and there would follow discussion of the day’s business. Only the west wall remains of the Chapter House.

There is a central doorway leading to the cloisters. The interior of the doorway is simple with two orders, floriate capitals and a half round pillar. The chapter house windows are in an unusual position.

Normally the windows of the Chapter House are located at height to avoid eavesdroppers. The upper parts of the windows are probably from the 15th century and it is possible that the windows were placed in their current position at that time. Sketches of the Abbey from 1779 show the windows in place.

Looking upwards it is possible to see the string course where the Chapter House ceiling would have been.

Above the string course are a line of small windows which would have been the original windows for the Dorta or Dormitory. It is probable that the original stairway to the Dorta was from within the Chapter House.

The two large windows at the north and south of the Dorta are probably 15th Century. The open cloister arcading which protrudes from the annex to the church is probably original, although it may have been subject to 15th century restoration. The other parts of the cloister arcading are 19th Century restoration work carried out by the Foy family.

The northernmost doorway in the west wall of the cloister is a plain three order doorway which opens onto a barrel-vaulted chamber.

There is a similar arrangement at Ballintubber and it is probable that the work was undertaken by a mason, or under the supervision of a mason, who worked at both sites. The doorway opens onto a chamber which was probably the armorium, a storage cupboard for books.

The exterior of the doorway to the Chapter House consists of three orders with a bold reversed ogee design. The capitals are finely carved leaves, stems and berries. The southernmost doorway of the west wall is one of the finest examples of this period.

It is representative of the transitional style from the Romanesque to Irish Gothic. The first, second and third of the exterior jambs are restored. The capitals are extremely elaborate leave, flowers and berries. Unusually, some of the capitals are of the stiff leaved type which are more usually associated with English styles and were uncommon in Ireland at this time.

Around the arch are the zig zag pattern of the chevron that are characteristic of the Romanesque. The innermost arch has a row of beads which are unique in Irish work of the period but are represented in continental work.

The doorway originally led into the slype – a narrow passageway which usually connected the exterior and interior of an Abbey. The southernmost chamber is now closed and was the Charnel House. This is where the skeletal remains would be stored.

The stairs behind the locked gate are part of the 19th century restoration by the Foys. The ambulatory around the cloisters is probably over the foundation of the buildings that would have occupied the southern and western ranges of the Abbey.

As stated previously, the cloister arcading was part of the 19th century restoration work and expanded the footprint of the cloisters. An 18th century plan of the cloisters shows a much more compact structure.

The southern and western ranges are completely absent. In a standard claustral design, the southern range would be occupied by the kitchen and refectory, while the western range would be occupied by the guest accommodation and hospital.

Turlough O'Connor was King of Connacht and High King of Ireland until his death in 1156. He was descended from the O'Connors of Roscommon who became Kings of Connacht in the 11th century and had their power base in Tuam.

In Tuam, St Mary’s Cathedral was founded by Turlough O’Connor in the 12th century to symbolise Tuam as a seat of an archbishop following the Synod of Kells in 1152. The High Cross of Tuam is located in the cathedral, while the remains of a cross shaft dating back to the 12th century can also be found.

The Chair of Tuam is a monument which is located at the ancient site of Rory O’Connor’s Castle in Tuam. The castle is believed to have been founded in approx. 1171 by King Rory, while the Chair of Tuam was unveiled in 1980 by the Archbishop of Armagh.

Turlough O'Connor is regarded as a great military tactician but also involved himself in ecclesiastical affairs. He is credited with founding Dún Bhun na Gaillimhe which became Galway City and building bridges on the Shannon at Athlone.

He made gifts to Clonmacnoise and provided for the construction of the Round Tower there, endorsed the consecration of the Bishop of Dublin and engaged in a major reconstruction of the monastery at Tuam and other ecclesiastical sites.

He is credited with the refoundation of the Abbey at Cong during the 1130's. We do not have an exact date for the refoundation of the Abbey at Cong as an Augustinian house.

Gill Abbery in Cork was a daughter of the Abbey in Cong and is believed to have been founded towards the end of the 1230's.

The foundation of Cong as an Augustinian Abbey is believed to have occurred shortly before. The Annals record that Cong was burned in 1137 so it is probable that it was in 1137 or 1138.

The Abbey is one of the earliest foundations of the Augustinian order outside of the North of Ireland and it is probable that its foundation within the Augustine discipline was due to the influence of St. Malachy on Turlough O'Connor.

The Canons Regular of St. Augustine were groups of priests who lived in community but performed pastoral work. The Canons at Cong acted as the Parish Priests to 17 local parishes by the start of the 1300's as well as providing training and education to the novices at the Abbey.

The Processional Cross of Cong , now in the National Museum, Dublin is an exquisite specimen of 12th century Irish monastic craftsmanship. It is acknowledged to be one of the finest works of art of that age in Europe.

The Bacall Bui (Yellow Crozier) as the cross was called, was made in Roscommon at the request of King Turlough O'Connor and was completed in 1123.

An oaken cross 30 inches high with arms extending 19 inches, it is covered with silver and bronze plates washed with gold. Its edges were studded with precious stones and a large crystal in the centre covered the relic enshrined in the cross.

The whole cross is richly decorated with designs of intricate interlacing and the carved heads of animals; even the heads of the little nails that hold the plates to the wood are animals' heads, a feature that shows Scandinavian influence on Irish art of that period.

An inscription in Latin on the side of the cross states that a portion of the “Cross on which the Creator of the world suffered” was enshrined on the Bacall Buy. The relic was sent from Rome to Turlough O'Connor.

Gaelic inscriptions ask for prayers for "Turlough O'Connor, King of Éireann", for two Church dignitaries of the family of O'Duffy, and for the Irish artist that made the cross Maoiliosa Ó Echan.

The cross was entrusted to the Augustinians of Cong and was, because of the sacred relic enshrined, always held in the deepest veneration. It was never allowed to leave the parish and was placed on the High Altar of the Abbey only on very special feast days.

The Cross was originally made for Tuam. That town was subject to frequent raids by the Normans in the late 12th century and it is possible that it was removed and brought to Cong at that time. It is also possible that the O'Duffy's were the hereditary keepers of the Cross and brought the Cross to Cong in the middle of the 12th century when they retired there.

Muiredach O'Duffy, Archbishop of Connacht and “Senior of all Ireland” died at Cong in 1150. Flannacan O'Duffy died at Cong in 1168. The Cross was kept in Cong until the 1830's when it was sold to the Royal Irish academy.

Ruairi O'Connor was the son of Turlough by his third wife. He was not a favourite of Turlough or his designated heir. On two occasions, Ruairi staged rebellions against his father and it was only through interventions by Muiredach O'Duffy that his life was spared.

However, through his actions in battle, he ascended to the position of King of Connachton his father's death in 1156. It was another ten years before he defeated challengers to the position of High King of Ireland. However, he was to be the last High King.

The competing interests of provinces of Ireland took on a new dimension in the late twelfth century when Dermot MacMurragh the deposed King of Leinster sought the assistance of the Norman rulers of England to regain his title. His action was to lead to 800 years of colonial rule in Ireland.

The Norman Invasion of Ireland was a significant turning point in Irish history. The early stages of the invasion resulted in the control of key areas of the east of the country, including Leinster, by Norman mercenaries.

Rory O'Connor launched a counteroffensive from his Connacht stronghold in 1171 but this was repulsed. Henry II launched his own attack on Ireland later that year to control the Norman mercenaries and subdue the native Irish forces.

While some Irish Kings submitted to Henry II, Rory O'Connor did not. Along with his allies, he continued to attack the Norman forces from his power base in the west. Eventually, a truce was proposed and in 1175 the Treaty of Windsor was signed which divided Ireland in two.

The Norman-held areas were subject to rule by Henry II and the Irish-held areas were under the rule of Ruairi O'Connor. The Treaty was returned to Ruairi in Ireland by Cadla O'Duffy, Archbishop of Connacht who was a party to the treaty and resided at Cong.

The Treaty did not hold and the Normans continued to take control of areas nominally under the control of Ruairi O'Connor. At the same time, there were disputes among the Irish who continued to invade Norman territory. In 1186 O'Connor was deposed as King of Connacht. He returned to Cong to spend his final years in the solitude of the Abbey.

Rory O'Connor, the last High King of Ireland, died at Cong in 1198 and was interred at Clonmacnoise. Read more

The first of the secular priests to succeed the Abbots was Dean Waldron. As successor, he took possession of the Abbot's house and its contents.

Hidden deep in a chest in the little house was a number of the treasures of Cong Abbey, among them the Bacall Buí, The Cross of Cong.

The Dean retained the cross for some years and in 1839 he was enticed to surrender it to the Royal Irish Academy for a consideration of 100 guineas, an action that caused considerable resentment among his parishioners.

The story of the Cross of Cong is not complete without reference to the man who, in 1869 at the age of 44, succeeded the Dean as Parish Priest. Fr. Pat Lavelle, originally from Louisburgh, Co. Mayo, was as a young priest appointed Professor of Philosophy at the Irish College in Paris and later worked as a country curate not far from Cong.

He was intensely patriotic and fearless of established authority. He made no secret of his sympathy of the Fenians both in his writings and in his actions. He incurred the wrath of Cardinal Cullen of Dublin when he attended the funeral of Terence Bellew McManus in defiance of the edict of the Cardinal who condemned the Fenians.

Further, he read the prayers at the graveside, delivered an oration in praise of the Fenian leader and criticised the attitude of the Cardinal. It was hoped when he was appointed Parish Priest of Cong that Fr. Lavelle would noiselessly recede from public life but he had one more protest to make.

Travelling to Dublin once again, he visited the Royal Irish Academy and asked to be shown the Cross of Cong. To the astonishment of the Curator and all present, he snatched the Cross from its case, tucked it under his overcoat and marched from the Academy loudly proclaiming he was taking the Bacall Buí back to Cong where it belonged. The Cross is now in the National Museum.

The Monks Fishing House is so constructed on a stone platform that the water flows through a gully underneath the floor.

The monks fished Cong River from the little house. When their monastic duties precluded them from using rod and line they had, it is told, a very clever device for catching the fish.

Through a trap that is still there in the floor, a net was fixed in the river; a line connected the net with a bell in the monastery kitchen. When a fish was netted, the bell rang to inform Brother Cook that he might include trout or salmon in the menu for the day. Moreover, the fish could be left there to stay fresh until needed.

Other research suggests that that the Monks Fishing House is a romantic invention of Cong's Victorian ancestors and that the above story is one "made up" by Mr. and Mrs. S.C. Hall in their 1840's book “Ireland, Its Scenery, Character and History.”

They suggested that the monks were banished from the Abbey because of their clever fishing ruse.

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It's suggested that the structure probably dates from the 15th century and may have been associated with the Abbey or the Castle. The Abbey did not have the fishing rights or the rights to the weir.

Those rights were granted to the Monastery of Kilcreevanty in 1400. Early sketches and photographs suggest it was once a more substantial structure. It's thought by some that the renovation of the remains in the 19th century lends more to creating a picturesque ruin in an idyllic setting rather than a faithful restoration.

On examining the internal arrangements of the structure, some believe there are similarities to the necessariums or redorters of continental monastries and argue that the porous limestone of the underlying abbey would have made diversion of a water course difficult.

From the bridge of the Monk's Fishing House, there is an excellent view of the turrets of Ashford Castle. The carved head over the doorway at the west end of this bridge is that of High King Ruairi O'Connor, who was so closely associated with the Abbey. The head and the doorway are the work of Peter Foy (born 1810) during the 19th Century. It was the practice at the time that if there was no physical painting of the subject as in this case, the sculptor would create a self-portrait.

Above the first gateway by the bridge over the small stream, you will see a carving of the head of Patrick Prendergast, the last Abbot of Cong.

To the south of the main Abbey building is a structure referred to locally as the Refectory. The structure is not earlier than the 16th century in design and therefore was unlikely to be associated with the Abbey.

Examination of the building material suggests that it may have been constructed from the ruins of the Abbey after its suppression. In the "Report of the State of Popery in Mayo and Galway" in 1731 it was recorded that there was one mass house in the Parish of Cong.

In 1761, Lord Chief Baron Edward Willes noted the continuance of Catholic burials in the grounds of the ruined abbey of Cong in Co. Mayo; "renocked by the Papist very holy ground and many covet to be buried there".

There are many examples throughout Ireland of mass houses being built adjacent to the ruins of sacred sites and it is possible that the first use of the structure to the south of the Abbey was a mass house.

One will notice that the chimney is twisted around. Local lore attributes the twisted chimney to the "Oiche na Gaoithe Moire" – the "Night of the Big Wind" in 1847.